Fine dining alive and well in Toronto
Published On Mon Apr 5 2010
The Toronto Star
By Corey Mintz Columnist
Yes, the current global recession has swept through Toronto’s restaurant scene like a brushfire. Food empires have crashed. Chef’s fortunes have crumbled. Some culinary temples of grandeur, such as Splendido, have downsized, scaling back the glitz. Others, like Truffles, have been laid to rest. Even Susur Lee, poster boy for kitchen pageantry, has started serving lunch at his restaurant Lee. He’s even put a hamburger on the menu, the culinary white flag.
But for those with anniversaries to celebrate or CEO titles to validate, there is still luxury to be had in some corners of Toronto’s dining scene.
On the fifth floor of the ROM, C5 Restaurant Lounge juggles the interests of high-rollers with casual museum guests. The view from C5 is a primary part of the lavish dining experience.
There is a kids menu with fish & chips and mac & cheese. But there is also lobster carbonara with tobiko. Asked by the museum to create an egg dish to tie in with May’s dinosaur egg exhibit, chef de cuisine Luigi Encarnacion took the tradition of pasta with egg yolks and bacon to another level. To the house-made tagliatelle and boar bacon, he’s added lobster and tobiko (flying fish roe), finishing the plate with a garnish of egg yolk that’s
been cured with black truffle.